“New” Iommi SG

skelt101

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Bumping an old Iommi thread. Coooool.
Nice! P90s in any config are just down right sexy looking. Orange drops. Is that custom shop or std? No sig so... think there was a custom sig, custom reissue, and std reissue. Didnt state the price tag.
Did you get the monkey sticker? Read there was an issue w rt hand guits got lefty stickers. And hows the horn strap button fairing. Back in the day, many of those configs stressed the wood. Became loose. Doesnt look played that much. Very nice bro!! Me thinks the original is in the NationalGuitar Museum now.
Thanks @Igonuts ! Unfortunately, I can't answer most of your questions yet. The guitar won't be "in-hand" until the middle of next week. I do have high hopes though! It was listed as "mint" condition, and appears to be a one-piece body from the pictures. (I thought the grain looked lovely too!) The price was $2k shipped.
 

Igonuts

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@skelt101,
Given the cost, 2Gs says its likely a std reissue. The custom reissue was like 20Gs~ and aged. One custom model has the sig. From what ive read, internally all alike. Dont even see pick scratches on the gaurd. Nice catch.
Waiting for my '21 std '61 to arive, i was like little kid waiting for chrstmas AM. Actually an early christmas gift so....
 
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skelt101

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I've been working on the setup of my Monkey SG. String height is pretty well dialed in after a change to TonePros locking studs. The intonation is really close, only the G-string is sharp at the 12th fret. Unfortunately, the travel is maxed out with no more room to go back, and the longer adjustment screws weren't in the case. Has anyone had any luck reversing the saddles in these new Badass-style bridges? If so, how does the saddle adjustment screw come out? Does anyone have the specs on the longer adjustment screws? Thanks in advance!
 

JimH

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Do you mean the screws to move the whole bridge forward and backward are not there? Take the bridge to a hardware store and buy some that fit.
 

cerebral gasket

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I've been working on the setup of my Monkey SG. String height is pretty well dialed in after a change to TonePros locking studs. The intonation is really close, only the G-string is sharp at the 12th fret. Unfortunately, the travel is maxed out with no more room to go back, and the longer adjustment screws weren't in the case. Has anyone had any luck reversing the saddles in these new Badass-style bridges? If so, how does the saddle adjustment screw come out? Does anyone have the specs on the longer adjustment screws? Thanks in advance!


The two longer grub screws that move the entire bridge away from the bridge posts are more than likely SAE #6-32 or #8-32 x 1" with slotted panhead from what I remember what was on my 1969 SG Special that had a Leo Quan Badass installed.

I always thought the long screws with slotted panhead looked ridiculous and that Allen screws with a shorter length that would be more concealed looks more finished.

As mentioned in above post, take the bridge to local hardware store and you should have no problem finding them as those size screws are very common, nothing special about them.
 

An Abiding Dude

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I've been working on the setup of my Monkey SG. String height is pretty well dialed in after a change to TonePros locking studs. The intonation is really close, only the G-string is sharp at the 12th fret. Unfortunately, the travel is maxed out with no more room to go back, and the longer adjustment screws weren't in the case. Has anyone had any luck reversing the saddles in these new Badass-style bridges? If so, how does the saddle adjustment screw come out? Does anyone have the specs on the longer adjustment screws? Thanks in advance!
I would add that when I got my Monkey (I bought one almost immediately after they became available) I was a bit put out that Gibson had not included those adjustment screws, so I contacted Gibson about sending some to me. They asked for proof of purchase and then sent me a whole replacement bridge with the screws in them! That blew a few minds on the forum, but I think when others did the same thing Gibson just set them the screws, but to Gibson's credit they did respond and take care of the issue. I have no clue why making sure the screws are in the bridge or as part of the case candy was not a part of QC for these guitars and it seems that it still has not been corrected.

On a side note, does anyone know why the website is freaking out when you try to drag and drop a photo into the dialog box? I either get an error message (Safari) or the image only opens in a new tab (Chrome).
 

Yohn

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I just got one of these directly from gibson.com and was surprised to see a very dark fingerboard... It's obviously dyed because it stains the fingers even from light playing. It looks almost like ebony but it's certainly not that.
Does anyone else have a similar fingerboard and could you comment on how it fares in the long term? I'm worried that it will end up with blotchy light spots after some playing if the dye comes off this easily.
I haven't tried to clean/treat the fingerboard yet, waiting for the weekend to take the strings off.
 

MR D

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Thanks @Igonuts ! Unfortunately, I can't answer most of your questions yet. The guitar won't be "in-hand" until the middle of next week. I do have high hopes though! It was listed as "mint" condition, and appears to be a one-piece body from the pictures. (I thought the grain looked lovely too!) The price was $2k shipped.
Dude, if the G string is sharp, file the G String NUT slot down slightly to .025" @ 1st Fret, problem will be solved.
 

MR D

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I've been working on the setup of my Monkey SG. String height is pretty well dialed in after a change to TonePros locking studs. The intonation is really close, only the G-string is sharp at the 12th fret. Unfortunately, the travel is maxed out with no more room to go back, and the longer adjustment screws weren't in the case. Has anyone had any luck reversing the saddles in these new Badass-style bridges? If so, how does the saddle adjustment screw come out? Does anyone have the specs on the longer adjustment screws? Thanks in advance!
Dude, if the G String is ringing SHARP, why not just file the G String NUT Slot down slightly, I'd say (without being there and measuring it to see how it is 1st!) to .024"-.026" (.025" is where I set every one of my GIBSON Electrics G Strings) @ 1st Fret...Finding the correct screws will be much more of a hassle than this simple procedure....and Imma willing to bet the problem will be solved by just taking a slight bit off the G String NUT SLOT.

Do a 'TAP TEST' on it as well....Put a Capo over the In-Lay between the 2nd & 3rd frets, all of the strings should clear the 1st fret by a C-Hair, if they are touching, you are already too low at the NUT.....if they are too high you will be ringing sharp.......in that case just get out the files.....and BTW.......What are you setting the Neck Relief at ?
 
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skelt101

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Dude, if the G String is ringing SHARP, why not just file the G String NUT Slot down slightly, I'd say (without being there and measuring it to see how it is 1st!) to .024"-.026" (.025" is where I set every one of my GIBSON Electrics G Strings) @ 1st Fret...Finding the correct screws will be much more of a hassle than this simple procedure....and Imma willing to bet the problem will be solved by just taking a slight bit off the G String NUT SLOT.

Do a 'TAP TEST' on it as well....Put a Capo over the In-Lay between the 2nd & 3rd frets, all of the strings should clear the 1st fret by a C-Hair, if they are touching, you are already too low at the NUT.....if they are too high you will be ringing sharp.......in that case just get out the files.....and BTW.......What are you setting the Neck Relief at ?

I have a setup spec for heights at 1st fret that produce DEAD-ON RINGING Open 'A' , 'D;' & 'E' chords in the SECOND OCTAVE, EVERY TIME...the Neck Relief should be be @, MAX, .005" @ 9TH Fret and preferably as close to DEAD STRAIGHT as possible....without Kinking the Neck Binding (if so equipped) of course.
I C so many Players Guitars that have Sharp ringing 1st fret notes(as well as intionation ringing sharp at the 12th fret) as the height at the 1st fret is just a bit too high and it just doesn't occur to them to get out the files...IDK, maybe they dont have any files ?
Thanks for the tips, D! Admittedly, I don't spend much time adjusting the nut slots as the appropriate files are not yet in my tool bag. I did get the bridge end sorted out though. The correct screw thread, if anyone needs it, is M3. I went with a 14mm length. That looked right and got the bridge where it needed to be for intonation. Unfortunately, the string height at the 12th fret was a little too high, even with the bridge decked down as far as it would go. For best performance with this BadAss-style bridge, Gibson should have either used a bigger angle at the neck joint, or made the fretboard higher off the body a la the 70s Flying Vs and Explorers. Ultimately, I went with a Schaller 455 bridge. It still looks the part (to me), and I'm able to set the string height where I like it with room to spare. Btw, I set the relief to be as flat as possible, with the string height 1 nickel low E and 1 penny high e. I'll have to get some pics up either here or in the customized sg thread...
 

MR D

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Dude, if the G String is ringing SHARP, file the G String NUT Slot down slightly, I'd say (without being there and measuring it 1st!) to .024"-.026" @ 1st Fret...I'm willing to bet it will solve the problem.
Thanks for the tips, D! Admittedly, I don't spend much time adjusting the nut slots as the appropriate files are not yet in my tool bag. I did get the bridge end sorted out though. The correct screw thread, if anyone needs it, is M3. I went with a 14mm length. That looked right and got the bridge where it needed to be for intonation. Unfortunately, the string height at the 12th fret was a little too high, even with the bridge decked down as far as it would go. For best performance with this BadAss-style bridge, Gibson should have either used a bigger angle at the neck joint, or made the fretboard higher off the body a la the 70s Flying Vs and Explorers. Ultimately, I went with a Schaller 455 bridge. It still looks the part (to me), and I'm able to set the string height where I like it with room to spare. Btw, I set the relief to be as flat as possible, with the string height 1 nickel low E and 1 penny high e. I'll have to get some pics up either here or in the customized sg thread...
Yo Skelt I fucked up, the D string is set at .024"-.027", the G string is .018"-.21", B .014"-.017" and Hi 'e' between .009"-.013" as long as it clears the 1st fret in the TAP Test, higher if it doesn't....I apologize that was MY BAD and just to complete the NUT slot set-up, Low 'E' @ .022"-.025", 'A' @ .023-.026"......these 1st fret strings heights w/as close to DEAD STRAIGHT Neck Relief, not more than .005" @ 9TH Fret, (w/Bridge and 12 fret string height at GIBSON Specs) will produce DEAD ON RINGING Open 'A', 'D' & 'E' chords in the 2nd Octave, it is a definite fact on a GIBSON ELectric w/12" Radius...took me years to get this right....and I find very few other players guitars that ever ring DEAD ON w/Open chords in the 2nd Octave.....BUT I know GIBSONs are designed, and can do, exactly this !
Took years to figure out....

Finding this out was key: a friend who was/is a GIBSON employee stated to me that GIBSON designs its guitars necks to be played DEAD STRAIGHT or as close as possible to it because slim-tapers ya gotta be careful with i.e. twists, kinked bindings etc...

Files and a string action gauge will be $$$ well spent and cost maybe $65-$80 for a modest set.....
 
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Frank1985

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Hey guys, I'm looking for a few pointers on how to best set up pickup height? How do you all have yours set?
 

skelt101

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Since I don’t have super accurate gauges and/or rulers, I’ve been following the coin tip method in this video. If nothing else, it’s a great starting point. :cheers:
 

Frank1985

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Thanks, I followed those specs (3/64 and 4/64) and actually, everything sounds a lot fuller now. For some reason the guy at the guitar shop set it up with the pups way too far from the strings on the treble side.
 

An Abiding Dude

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IMG_0884.jpeg
Hey all you Monkey owners that got no adjustment screws for your bridge (which I think was about everybody), I figured out the screw type you need. It's metric and its nomenclature is M3-.5 x "Y" (the "Y" is a number that indicates the length of the screw). I had to go to a specialty hardware store to figure it out, but there it is. I bought a bunch of different styles and lengths just to see what I liked atheistically. The 12 screws pictured cost about 2 bucks. Hope this helps!
 


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