Can't intone (Vintage Brand) SG

Arthur Gallant

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Hi Folks,

I'm trying to set the intonation on a Vintage brand VS6VW made in 2017 but the D and G are flat and I can't move the saddles any further forward (towards the neck). I've tried to remove the adjusting screw so I can reverse the saddles but at the end it seems to be stuck and I don't want to force it without knowing what I'm doing. Does anyone know if this can be done or should I just buy a wider bridge with more movement for the saddles and if so, does anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks
 

Arthur Gallant

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The nut slots are in very good shape. The guitar sat in the original box until about six months ago. It has less than ten hours of play on it and the neck is great. Low action and all. I just can't intonate it and I can't remove the screw to flip the saddle around. Photos coming soon.
 

Colnago

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You should be able to flip those saddles around on that bridge. There might be a clip holding the screw under the saddle. Look for that and you’ll need to carefully pry it off the end of the screw while turning the screw. Reassembly is typically easier than disassembly.
Try to post “in focus” close up pictures of the top and bottom of the bridge so we can know for sure.
Thanks!
 

Carrion

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Hi Folks,

I'm trying to set the intonation on a Vintage brand VS6VW made in 2017 but the D and G are flat and I can't move the saddles any further forward (towards the neck). I've tried to remove the adjusting screw so I can reverse the saddles but at the end it seems to be stuck and I don't want to force it without knowing what I'm doing. Does anyone know if this can be done or should I just buy a wider bridge with more movement for the saddles and if so, does anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks


I am at a loss on why the D & G cannot be adjusted but yet the E A B E are . It makes no sense that there is not enough play/ adjust room when the string beside it is fine.

I would look at your tuner maybe ..

The nut is a straight line, as well as the bridge. 2 strings should not be so different in adjust length
 

Arthur Gallant

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And.... Carrion, you're right, it shouldn't be this way but it is. The saddle that's down by the tailpiece is the one that I've been trying to remove so it looks funny. The tuner is The Snail by IRCAM. It's very accurate. And... Colnago, yes,there's a plate on the neck side of the bridge so I'll try to deal with
it. Thanks to all for your help!

Vintage SG 04.png Vintage SG 05.png
 

Carrion

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And.... Carrion, you're right, it shouldn't be this way but it is. The saddle that's down by the tailpiece is the one that I've been trying to remove so it looks funny. The tuner is The Snail by IRCAM. It's very accurate. And... Colnago, yes,there's a plate on the neck side of the bridge so I'll try to deal with
it. Thanks to all for your help!

View attachment 51120 View attachment 51121

Good Luck !! love the Gold hardware :)
 

Colnago

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I can clearly see the retaining wire resting on the saddle screw heads. That wire needs to be removed from the tiny holes at each end of the bridge in order to free the screw which keeps the saddle in place. Remove the retaining wire and all will be good.
 

Les’s Nemisis

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I agree with

1) New strings before you try anything else.

2) Make sure the nut slot heights are correct.

3) Remove the ABR-1 wire if it's there. The screws either have a little loctite on the ends or they munged the threads so that they would not come off. They should unthread with a good screwdriver of proper size in use. They went on, they will come off

4) You can get a Nashville style bridge that should fit those ABR-1 posts, assuming the spacing is standard. Amazon has a few. Nashvilles have a wider adjustment range.

If you have a caliper, measure the distance center to center of the bridge posts. If you don't have a caliper, you can use a finely graduated ruler. It's hard to measure center to center accurately, so measure from the inside of one post the outside of the other to get the dimension.
 


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