Is this a normal tailpiece height?

Guithartic

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I just got a new SG standard. The strings were touching the back of the bridge, so I had to raise the tail piece. This is how high it is with just enough room for a piece of paper to slide between the bridge and the strings. On my Les Paul, I have the tail piece screwed all the way down to the body, average string height, and none of the strings touch the bridge. On this SG, it seems way too high. 338A3C10-0672-4D2A-9CE9-E291CD03662A.jpeg
 

rabbit

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My first guess is that the SG has a larger neck angle where it meets the body forcing you to raise the bridge and tailpiece.

If not then it's all about *adjustments for personal taste/playability.

Personally I wrap my strings over the top of the tail to lower the overall tension on the bridge also allowing for lower break angle action without worrying about the strings touching the back of the bridge.

Try a top wrap and you'll see it solves at least one potential problem. Of course there will be others to chime in on why you shouldn't top wrap.


* nut height, truss rod adjustment to neck (straight, relief, backbow), bridge height, stop tail height.
 
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papagayo

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I setup my SG having the same strings angle at the nut and at the bridge.

SG Standard TBK 219.jpg
 

Guithartic

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You will need to top-wrap this tailpiece. Ideal is that the break angle is identical each side of the bridge. That results in the string force going directly down through the bridge and not forcing it sideways.
Ok, So if the bridge is angled a little, the tail piece should also be at about the same slant, so that the break angle of the strings are equal to each other.
 

MR D

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Somtimes I do not like to chime in to these topics....I do not have scientific arguents, as I'm NOT a sccientist..BUT NOT THIS TIME COZ, really ?........ IDGAS !

I used to not let the 'E' strings touch the bridge.... but now, in the last half decade or so, I let both the 'E' strings touch the back of the bridge, slightly,... this is because the upward arch of the bridge starts on under side of the bridge between the Lo 'E' & 'A', 'B' & Hi 'E' strings...so that it appears to me that the downward pressure is not affectin the actual arch of the bridge and, that bein the case, the 'E' strings touchin the back of the bridge isn't going to affect the bridge negatively...I'v done this now for about 5 years and there have been no bridge failures and not even a micro crack in any of the 10-12 guitars I have setup like this that I observe on a constant basis. If its somone else's guitar I do not do this and always have the 'E' strings just barely clear the bridge by the width of a USDollar bill....But now, I only do that only on other players guitars...and that only because I just do not want to hear the BULL-$#!T complaints...as well as not wanting to explain what I just wrote...Which BTW IMO is perfectly OK !
 

donepearce

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Ok, So if the bridge is angled a little, the tail piece should also be at about the same slant, so that the break angle of the strings are equal to each other.
Not quite. If the break angle is identical both sides of the bridge, the bridge will sit perfectly upright with no tendency to lean.
 

Guithartic

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Not quite. If the break angle is identical both sides of the bridge, the bridge will sit perfectly upright with no tendency to lean.
OK but then the next question would be how would I get the high E at 4/64 and the low E at 6/64 if the bridge is level? On my Les Paul, I have had to tilt the bridge a little to get that action.
 

JimH

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This is how mine looks. It is high, but it plays beautifully with a slinky action, and it sounds great so it doesn't bother me at all. Some might tell you that the neck angle is "bad," but I used the adjustments that are built in to the guitar to make it play the way I like. There is no right or wrong as long as it works for you.



stopbarscale.jpg
 

SGBreadfan

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The photo in the OP looks perfectly reasonable to me. Raising or lowering the stop bar does absolutely nothing to the sound of the guitar, but avoiding undue pressure on the bridge will keep it from collapsing. Play on my friend.
Yup, will do nothing to the sound although raising the tailpiece will impart a slinkier feel…which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
 

DrBGood

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OK but then the next question would be how would I get the high E at 4/64 and the low E at 6/64 if the bridge is level? On my Les Paul, I have had to tilt the bridge a little to get that action.
How do you "tilt a bridge" on purpose ?
 

Guithartic

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This is how mine looks. It is high, but it plays beautifully with a slinky action, and it sounds great so it doesn't bother me at all. Some might tell you that the neck angle is "bad," but I used the adjustments that are built in to the guitar to make it play the way I like. There is no right or wrong as long as it works for you.



View attachment 48802
That does look similar. I’m guessing that the strings don’t touch the back of the bridge. It’s not possible to tell from this photo. It actually looks like it is touching, but it could be the angle of the photo.
 

JimH

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Not touching, but close. Not that I think it would matter to me if they were touching or not, as long as it plays and sounds good.
 

donepearce

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OK but then the next question would be how would I get the high E at 4/64 and the low E at 6/64 if the bridge is level? On my Les Paul, I have had to tilt the bridge a little to get that action.
I'm talking about the bridge rocking back and forth under string force. You are asking about bridge height at its two ends. You set that with the knurled wheels. BTW please always reduce fractions to their simplest. 4/64 is 1/16, and 6/64 is 3/32. Both are far higher than is necessary.
 

3bolt79

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I'm talking about the bridge rocking back and forth under string force. You are asking about bridge height at its two ends. You set that with the knurled wheels. BTW please always reduce fractions to their simplest. 4/64 is 1/16, and 6/64 is 3/32. Both are far higher than is necessary.
Probably best to leave the fractions in 64ths as we all, well most of us who do repairs seem to think in 64ths. Fender and Gibson publish their specs in 64ths. And don’t get me started on mm measurements unless we are talking about classical guitars.
 


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